The Bourtzi castle on its islet in the bay at Nafplio

Peloponnese places · Nafplio

Nafplio: what to see, eat and do in the first capital of modern Greece

A Venetian harbour town under a rock fortress, with castles in the bay, lanes full of bougainvillea and some of the best strolling in Greece. A local’s guide to what is worth your time.

The short answer

Greece’s prettiest town for a slow wander.

Nafplio sits on the Gulf of Argolis, an hour or two south of Athens. It served as the first capital of the new Greek state in the early 1830s, and it still has the grand squares, neoclassical houses and Venetian walls to prove it.

Most people come for a day and wish they had stayed two. There is a fortress to climb, a castle you can see from every terrace, a flat seaside path for sunset and an old town where it is a pleasure to be lost.

We run a small hotel on the quieter east coast, about an hour and three quarters south, so Nafplio is one of our favourite days out. This is the guide we would give a friend.

Written by the Sampatiki Suites team. Updated September 2026.

Best for

Wandering, castles, sunsets

Time needed

One day, better two

The big climb

Palamidi, about 900 steps

From our coast

About 1 hr 45 by road

What to see

The ten things worth your time.

You can do most of these on foot, and many are within ten minutes of each other.

The fortress

Palamidi

A Venetian hilltop fortress built in the 1680s, reached by a long stone staircase that is famously counted as 999 steps, though the real number is nearer 900. Go early or late to avoid the heat, and allow an hour or two at the top for the views over the whole gulf.

The castle in the bay

Bourtzi

A small island fortress just off the harbour, built by the Venetians to guard the port. You can reach it by a short boat ride, and it looks best from the waterfront at dusk.

The old hill

Akronafplia

The oldest part of the town, with walls that were rebuilt by Byzantines, Franks and Venetians in turn. It rewards a slow walk with views back over the old town.

The sea path

The Arvanitia promenade

A flat, easy walk of around twenty minutes around the foot of Akronafplia, with the sea on one side and pine and rock on the other. It ends at the small Arvanitia beach, so bring a swimsuit.

The living room

Syntagma Square

The heart of the old town, with cafés and the old Venetian arsenal that now houses the Archaeological Museum. A good place to sit with a coffee and watch the town go by.

The story

Agios Spyridon and Kapodistrias

The church where Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first head of the Greek state, was assassinated in 1831. A short stop that explains why the town matters.

The quirky one

The Komboloi Museum

A small museum devoted to worry beads, which is far more fascinating than it sounds, and cheap to enter.

The lanes

Old town streets

Bougainvillea, balconies, shuttered houses and small shops. Pick any lane going uphill from the harbour and follow it.

The longer beach

Karathona

A long beach a short drive or a pleasant coastal walk from the town, good for a swim away from the old town crowds.

The best hour

Sunset on the waterfront

Walk the harbour front as the light turns gold and the Bourtzi lights come on. Then have dinner nearby.

Our tip

Climb Palamidi first thing in the morning, then spend the middle of the day in the shade of the old town.

The old town of Nafplio at dusk with the Bourtzi castle in the bay

The old town and the Bourtzi at dusk.

Stone steps between painted houses in the old town of Nafplio

A little history

Why Nafplio matters.

Nafplio has been fought over for centuries. The Venetians held it, the Ottomans took it, and the Venetians took it back, leaving the fortresses and the harbour walls you see today. When the Greek War of Independence ended, it became the first capital of the new state, from 1829 to 1834, before the court moved to Athens.

That history is why the town has so many neoclassical buildings, wide squares and small museums for its size. It feels like a capital that decided to stay a village.

Eat and drink

Where to have lunch, and what to order.

Eat in the old town rather than on the very edge of the harbour. Tavernas a street or two back from the waterfront tend to be calmer, better priced and busier with locals. Order grilled fish, seasonal greens and whatever the cook recommends, and finish with a coffee in Syntagma Square.

In summer and at weekends, Athenians fill the town. Visit midweek or in spring and autumn and you will have the lanes almost to yourself.

Our tip

Book a table in the evening in high season, especially at weekends.

One day or two

How to plan Nafplio.

One day

Palamidi, lunch and the sea path

Climb Palamidi in the morning, have lunch in the old town, walk the Arvanitia promenade in the afternoon, and watch the sunset on the waterfront.

Two days

Add the old town and a day trip

Spend the first day as above, and use the second for the museums, Karathona and a trip to the ancient sites at Epidaurus and Mycenae, or Tolo beach.

Nafplio and the east coast

Pair it with the quiet coast.

Nafplio is the best-known base on the Argolic Gulf, and it is a good place for culture, dinners and short walks. If you want long, quiet beaches, mountain trails and a slower pace, head south along the coast to Leonidio after a night or two. It takes about an hour and three quarters, and the road itself is part of the trip.

That is the combination we recommend: two nights in Nafplio for the town, then three or four on the east coast with us for the beaches, the trails and the red cliffs.

From us at Sampatiki

After a day among the fortresses, come south for a slower pace: sea-view suites, a pool and a spa, and breakfast built around local produce. We can help you plan the drive and the days out.

Keep exploring

Keep planning.

Guide

The Peloponnese travel guide

Routes, seasons and day trips across the peninsula.

Itinerary

Peloponnese in 10 days

A ten-day route beyond the famous sites.

Itinerary

7-day east Peloponnese road trip

Nafplio to Monemvasia via Leonidio.

Questions

Before you go.

Is Nafplio worth visiting?

Yes. It is one of the most attractive towns in Greece, with a Venetian fortress, a castle in the bay, a lovely old town and a seaside walk, all within walking distance of each other.

How many days do you need in Nafplio?

One day covers the main sights. Two days lets you slow down and add Karathona, the museums and a trip to Epidaurus or Mycenae.

How many steps are there to Palamidi?

The staircase is traditionally said to have 999 steps, but the real number is nearer 900. You can also reach the fortress by road, if you prefer not to climb.

What is Nafplio famous for?

It was the first capital of modern Greece, in the early 1830s, and is known for its Venetian fortresses, its harbour castle, its neoclassical old town and its easy, romantic atmosphere.

Can you swim in Nafplio?

Yes. There is a small beach at the end of the Arvanitia promenade and a longer one at Karathona, a short drive or walk away.

When is the best time to visit Nafplio?

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable, with warm days and fewer visitors. Summer is hot and weekends are busy with visitors from Athens.

How far is Nafplio from Leonidio?

About an hour and three quarters by road. It makes a good day out from the east coast, or the first stop on a trip south.

Where should I stay on the Peloponnese east coast?

Nafplio suits culture and dinners. For quiet beaches and mountains, Leonidio and Sampatiki are about an hour and a half to two hours south. Our hotel has eleven sea-view suites, a spa and an early breakfast.

Stay with us

Come and see it for yourself.

Eleven sea-view suites, a spa and a breakfast built around local produce, a few minutes from Leonidio.

Sampatiki Suites hotel Leonidio

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