Food and local life · Leonidio
A guest’s guide to the east coast kitchen: the sweet Tsakonian aubergine, fish on the harbour at Plaka, home cooking in town, and where to buy the best to take home.
The short answer
Leonidio is a food place. The valley grows the Tsakonian aubergine, a variety with protected origin status since 1996. The harbour at Plaka brings in fish. The mountain villages send down goat cheese, wild greens, chestnuts and honey.
You do not need a long list. Order the aubergine, order the fish, find a table where the locals sit, and eat slowly. The tavernas here still cook the way families cook at home.
Below is what we send our own guests to, with what to order and when to go. Menus and opening hours change with the season, so ask us at reception if you want us to check before you set out.
Written by the Sampatiki Suites team. Updated September 2026.
The local star
Tsakonian aubergine, PDO since 1996
Fish
At the harbour in Plaka
Market
Leonidio, Monday mornings
Festival
Melitzazz aubergine festival, early July
Order this
Aubergine
Long, slim and purple, naturally sweet, with no need to salt or peel it. Locals fry it with tomato sauce, bake it with cheese, stuff it, turn it into dips and even into a spoon sweet. If you only order one thing, order this.
Lamb
The classic pairing of the area. Slow-cooked, rich and simple.
Fish
At Plaka the boats land the fish and the tavernas cook it plainly, often eaten with your hands. Ask what came in that morning.
Greens
Mountain greens boiled and dressed with local olive oil and lemon. Humble, bitter and very good alongside fish.
Cheese
Made in the villages. Try the fresh cheese with bread, or the harder dry cheese as a meze.
Mountain
In the hills above the coast the cooking turns hearty: chickpeas with chestnuts, goat stew and pork with greens and celery.
Sweet
Preserves of aubergine, walnut, chestnut and cherry, served with a glass of water and coffee. At holidays, look for diples, kourabiedes and melomakarona.
Our tip
Order several small plates and share. Aubergine, greens, a fish and some bread make a very good meal for two.
Where to eat
These are places we and other visitors mention most. Please treat the details as a guide: kitchens change, and some close in the quiet months. Ask us before you set out and we will tell you what is open.
Plaka harbour
Open since 1902 on the pebble beach at Plaka, about 4 km from Leonidio, run by a fishing family. Red mullet, and the classic fried Tsakonian aubergine with tomato sauce. Tables by the water.
Plaka harbour
Plaka has two traditional tavernas right at the water’s edge. Walk the harbour at sunset, look at what is on the grill and choose.
Leonidio town
On the village square under the red cliffs. Classic Greek cooking: chops, roast lamb, rooster in wine sauce and soutzoukakia.
Leonidio town
Home-style cooking known as mageirefta, with good vegetarian dishes such as gemista, stuffed tomatoes and peppers.
Leonidio town
Wood-fired pizza with local aubergine, and spaghetti baked in clay pots. A relaxed choice for families.
Poulithra
A seafood taverna on the coast to the north, about 7.5 km from Leonidio. Fresh fish and seafood with a sea view.
Coffee and a drink
Coffee with a view of the red rock at Terpno or Protokollo, a traditional kafeneio for coffee by day and a beer and meze at night, or the climber-run Panjika for specialty coffee and craft beer.
Take it home
Monday
The weekly market runs on Monday mornings, around 07:00 to 14:00. Vegetables, fish and mountain honey. Go early.
Spoon sweets
Known for the aubergine spoon sweet, handmade pasta, seasonal treats and local liqueurs. A very good gift.
Honey and sweets
Handmade sweets, marmalades, liqueurs and honey.
Bread
Wood-fired loaves at Vlamis and handmade rusks, paximadia, at Latsis. Rusks travel well.
Pantry
A traditional grocer in town sells roasted coffee, local wine and artisan foods. Ask for oil from this year’s harvest.
Through the year
Spring and summer
Wild greens come down from the hills in spring. The aubergine is at its best in summer, and Plaka holds the Melitzazz aubergine festival in early summer: in 2026 it ran from 2 to 5 July.
Autumn
From late autumn the new oil appears on tables, and the beaches and tavernas are calm.
Winter
Greens boiled with oil and lemon, pulses and sweet trahanas, a milk and wheat porridge. The kitchens are quiet, and the climbers are in.
Easter
Lamb on the spit and the holiday sweets. If you are here for Easter, book ahead.
A day of eating
Morning
Start with breakfast at the hotel from 08:00 to 10:30, or go to the Monday market for fruit, honey and fresh bread.
Lunch
Grilled meat and something with aubergine at a table under the cliffs.
Afternoon
Pick up sweets from the cooperative or a bag of rusks from the bakery.
Evening
Drive down to the harbour for sunset. Order the catch, the greens and the fried aubergine.
From us at Sampatiki
Our breakfast is built around local products, served every day from 08:00 to 10:30. Ask at reception where to eat that evening and we will tell you what is open and what is good right now.
Keep exploring
Questions
What is Leonidio famous for in food?
The Tsakonian aubergine, a sweet, slim variety with protected origin status since 1996. Locals cook it fried, baked, stuffed and as a spoon sweet.
What is Tsakonian aubergine?
A long, slender purple aubergine grown in the Leonidio valley. It is naturally sweet, so it needs no salting or peeling.
Where can I eat fresh fish near Leonidio?
At the harbour in Plaka, about 4 km from town, where the tavernas serve the local catch at the water’s edge. There is also a seafood taverna at Poulithra.
When is the Leonidio market?
The weekly market is on Monday mornings, roughly 07:00 to 14:00. Vegetables, fish and mountain honey are on sale.
Are there vegetarian options?
Yes. Aubergine dishes, boiled wild greens, gemista and bean dishes are all common, and many tavernas cook vegetable dishes every day.
What should I bring home from Leonidio?
The aubergine spoon sweet, local honey, handmade pasta, paximadia rusks and a bottle of this year’s olive oil.
Stay with us
Eleven sea-view suites, a spa and a breakfast built around local produce, a few minutes from Leonidio.
Prices and Taxes: 1.1 All room rates and charges are subject to applicable taxes and fees as mandated by local authorities. 1.2 The hotel reserves the right to adjust prices based on seasonal demands, events, or any other relevant factors.
Payment and Terms at Check-in/Check-out: 2.1 Payment is required in full at the time of check-in. 2.2 Accepted forms of payment include cash, credit cards, and other methods approved by the hotel. 2.3 Early check-in or late check-out may be subject to additional charges.
Traveling with Minors: 3.1 Guests under the age of 18 must be accompanied by an adult. 3.2 The hotel reserves the right to request proof of age for minors.
Accessibility or Special Needs: 4.1 Please inform the hotel in advance of any special needs or accessibility requirements. 4.2 The hotel strives to provide accessible accommodations, but availability may be limited.
Parking: 5.1 Parking is available on a first-come, first-served basis. 5.2 The hotel is not responsible for any loss or damage to vehicles parked on the premises.
Hotel Events: 6.1 The hotel may host events that could impact guest services. 6.2 Guests will be notified of any major events that may affect their stay.
Dispute Resolution/Issues: 7.1 Any issues or disputes should be reported to the front desk immediately for resolution. 7.2 If resolution cannot be reached, guests agree to pursue dispute resolution through arbitration.
Use of Personal Information: 8.1 The hotel collects and processes personal information in accordance with applicable privacy laws. 8.2 Personal information is used for booking, communication, and internal marketing purposes.
Liability: 9.1 The hotel is not liable for loss, theft, or damage to guests’ personal property. 9.2 Guests are responsible for any damages caused to hotel property.
Force Majeure: 10.1 The hotel is not liable for any failure to perform its obligations due to unforeseen circumstances beyond its control.
Third Party Rights: 11.1 Only registered guests are entitled to hotel services and amenities.
Waiver: 12.1 Failure to enforce any provision of these terms does not constitute a waiver of that provision.
Severance: 13.1 If any provision of these terms is found to be invalid or unenforceable, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and effect.
By booking a stay at our hotel, guests agree to abide by these terms and conditions. The hotel reserves the right to amend these terms as necessary, with any changes being effective upon posting.
